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whisky wars Chris White whisky wars Chris White

The Whisky Wars: Episode VI: Return of the Single Malt

Six decades of unrelenting crisis test whisky's survival. We navigate American Prohibition's rum-running trade, endure the Great Depression's poverty, and witness World War II's restrictions empty warehouses of precious aged stock. Through it all, blended whisky dominates whilst single malts fade into obscurity. Then in 1963, Glenfiddich makes a revolutionary decision to market single malt whisky, planting seeds for an unlikely renaissance. We'll discover how whisky endured its longest darkness, emerging battered but alive into the 1980s.

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The Whisky Wars: Episode V: The Empire Strikes Back

The golden age ends in catastrophe. We witness the devastating Pattison fraud of 1898 that bankrupted distilleries across Scotland, explore how corporate giants rose by absorbing struggling independents, and discover the unexpected boost from French brandy's collapse. Then came World War I, bringing government restrictions, distillery closures, and hostile politicians who saw whisky as wasteful. We'll see how the industry emerged from war battered and diminished, entering the 1920s fighting simply to survive.

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The Whisky Wars: Episode IV - A New Hope

The golden age arrives as Scottish whisky conquers the world. We discover how railways revolutionised distribution, connecting remote Highland distilleries to global markets in days rather than weeks. We'll explore Speyside's emergence as whisky's heartland, witness the blending houses like Johnnie Walker and Chivas Brothers transform whisky into a mass-market phenomenon, and see how British imperial expansion carried Scottish spirits across the globe. This was whisky's moment of triumph, but clouds were gathering on the horizon.

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Glen Scotia 15 Year Old

Campbeltown whisky has always intrigued me. Once the whisky capital of Scotland with over 30 distilleries, the region now boasts just three, and Glen Scotia is one of them. The 15 year old sits in the middle of their core range, and it's been on my radar for a while. There's something about Campbeltown malts that feels different — a distinct character that sets them apart from the mainstream Speyside and Highland expressions. Let's see if my first foray here lives up to the hype...

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Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old

There's something quietly rebellious about Bunnahabhain. While most of Islay shouts about peat and smoke, this distillery on the island's remote northeastern shore takes a different path entirely. The 12 year old is their flagship expression, an unpeated single malt that lets sherry casks and coastal character take centre stage. I've been curious about this one for a while, particularly after reading so much about how it divides opinion amongst Islay purists. Let's see what all the fuss is about...

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Aberlour A’bunadh Alba

Aberlour returns to familiar territory, but this time with a twist. The A'bunadh Alba ditches the distillery's signature sherry casks for first-fill ex-bourbon barrels, showcasing a brighter, fruitier side of their spirit. At cask strength and naturally coloured, it's an interesting experiment that proves Aberlour can stand without the sherry blanket. But at more than £80, does this bourbon-forward expression justify the price, or does the youth show through too much?

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GlenAllachie 15 year old

When I reviewed GlenAllachie 12 as part of my journey toward whisky centurion status, I was impressed by Billy Walker's vision for this distillery. Since acquiring GlenAllachie in 2017, Walker has transformed it from a quiet producer of blending stock into a single malt brand with a genuine cult following. The 12 year old showed promise, but I've been curious about the 15 Walker's own favourite from the core range, which he describes as "the perfect representation of the distillery's DNA." That's quite a claim. Let's see if it holds up.

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Benromach 10 Year Old

Sometimes a whisky takes you by surprise. I thought I knew what to expect from Speyside — the sweet, fruit-forward drams that have defined the region for decades. But Benromach has other ideas. This 10 year old sits somewhere altogether different, a throwback to an older style of Speyside that's become increasingly rare. I've been curious about this distillery for years, ever since I visited on that road trip through Scotland mentioned on my about page. Let's see if it lives up to the memory...

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The Whisky Wars: Episode III - Revenge of the Scots

Everything changed in 1823. In this episode, we witness the dramatic transformation from outlaws to entrepreneurs. We'll follow George Smith's brave decision to take the first legal licence despite death threats, explore how railways and blending revolutionised the industry, and see how Scottish whisky evolved from illicit craft into the legitimate business that would conquer global markets.

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The Whisky Wars: Episode II - Attack of the Excisemen

The 18th century transformed whisky-making into an act of rebellion. In this episode, we journey through the golden age of smuggling, meeting legendary figures like Magnus Eunson who outwitted Excise officers with extraordinary cunning. We'll explore how Culloden intensified resistance, why the 1784 Wash Act backfired spectacularly, and discover how entire communities united against enforcement - setting the stage for inevitable change.

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The Whisky Wars: Episode I - The Phantom Spirits

Before legal distilleries existed, Scottish whisky was born in mystery and tradition. In this episode, we explore how medieval monks brought distillation knowledge from Ireland, transforming medicinal spirits into cultural cornerstone. We'll discover how this craft spread through Highland communities, with each region developing distinctive character. Finally, we examine the 1644 tax that ignited a conflict defining Scotland for centuries - the battle for its spirit had begun.

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The Whisky Wars: a story of Scotland's spirit through the ages

Scottish whisky has one of the most dramatic origin stories in the world of spirits. Monks and smugglers, rebellions and revolutions, outlaws who became entrepreneurs, and a spirit that survived everything from government oppression to global catastrophe. It's an epic tale spanning centuries, filled with larger-than-life characters and transformative moments that shaped not just an industry but Scottish culture itself.

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Fettercairn 16 Year Old (4th Release: 2023)

I really like the Fettercairn brand - they manage to carefully tread the delicate line between desirable, classy whisky and price pretty well. I was lucky enough to attend Whisky Live in London earlier this year and one of the stands with the biggest crowds was inevitably the Fettercairn stand. They had a lovely selection of whiskies, including the 16 year old which is now part of their core range. This version, however, is from a few years earlier when it was being released in limited batches, let’s see what it is like.

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Aberlour 16 Year Old

Sometimes I feel like Aberlour is my Achilles’ heel. I know their whisky isn’t the most complex, and yet something keeps drawing me back. I can never quite put my finger on it. Deep down, I know I could do better… and still I return. Today we’re looking at one of the older (and pricier) expressions in their core range - the 16 year old. Last year I tried the 14 year old and came away a little underwhelmed. Let’s see if this one fares any better.

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Benriach 12 Year Old - The Twelve

Benriach is one of the few Speyside distilleries that produces both peated and unpeated versions of their entry levels spirit. I’m keen to investigate their peated versions soon but for now we’re focussing on the twelve year old expression from their core range. Located just south of Elgin the Benriach name is loudly emblazoned on the side of the warehouse facing the A941 - it must be one the hardest distilleries to miss when driving past! Let’s see if the whisky lives up to this brash signage…

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Glenfiddich 15 Year Old - Our Solera Fifteen

Glenfiddich may well be the most famous name in single malt Scottish whisky. Only The Glenlivet comes close in terms of output, but Glenfiddich pairs its vast production with marketing and presentation that’s often a cut above the rest, whether it’s to your taste or not. Just take a look at their website or the stunning artwork on the presentation box for this 15 Year Old and you’ll see what I mean.

A few weeks ago I tried one of the bottlings from their experimental series: Project XX. It was genuinely interesting and made me want to revisit the dram that arguably sits at the heart of their core offering - the 15 year old. Let’s see what it’s like.

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Arran Barrel Reserve

This is my first experience with the Arran distillery. Although it opened in 1995, it is relatively young by Scottish standards but is now well established as the Isle of Arran’s first distillery for well over a century. The distillery was built from scratch in the village of Lochranza in the north of the island to make use of the rainwater which pools at Loch na Davie. It is claimed that this is the ‘purest water in all of Scotland’, and this purity allows the distillery to make whisky that needs no artificial colouring and no chill-filtration. It all sounds great to me, so let’s taste the dram!

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Glenfiddich Project XX

A long time ago, when I was a young teenager, I lived in Elgin for a few years and every time we had visitors from outside Scotland come and visit us, we did a tour of the Baxters factory in Fochabers and the Glenfiddich distillery in Dufftown. My parents weren’t really whisky drinkers, so I have no idea why they chose this distillery but I must have done the tour five or six times and it was my first real exposure to Scottish whisky. The distillery felt huge - at least that is my memory of it - and very industrial, nothing like the image so often portrayed by Scottish distilleries. Let’s see what it tastes like.

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Glendronach 15 Year Old Revival

Glendronach is a distillery that has been on a bit of a rollercoaster over the last few decades. Closures and re-openings, changes in high profile master distillers and excellent quality old stock followed by different, but also excellent, quality new stock. Its spirit has been used for blends as well as won Whisky of the Year (which this 15 year old did in 2020). The price has, consequently risen, and at around £80 it is now a pretty expensive dram. Perhaps this is why it seems to have fallen out of favour of late. This certainly isn’t to knock the whisky itself though, which still draws a smile from nearly every whisky enthusiast.

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Royal Brackla 12 Year Old

A mere glance at this bottle tells you that it should be a ‘fine’ whisky. The opulent, royal blue neck foil, classy label and rich coloured spirit all speak to the royal history that this distillery proclaims. Nestled in the countryside of the Cawdor Estate in the Scottish Highlands (right on the border with the Speyside region) lies the distillery which claims royal heritage back to the early 1800s when it was granted a royal warrant by King William IV. The distillery has been closed and re-opened several times since then but retains its traditional, regal style into the modern age. I can’t wait to try it.

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