Highland Park 12 Year Old
Highland Park is one of those distilleries with a reputation that precedes it. Located in Orkney, it's the northernmost distillery in Scotland and has been producing whisky since 1798. The 12 year old is their flagship expression, a whisky that's often held up as a benchmark for balanced, well-rounded Scotch. It's lightly peated, sherry cask matured, and aims to sit somewhere between the gentle Highland style and the more assertive island character. I've heard plenty about this one over the years, so it's high time I gave it a proper try. Let's see if it lives up to the hype...
Bottle
The Highland Park bottle follows their 2024 redesign, which has moved away from the previous Viking-themed branding. This is a sturdy, solid bottle that looks like it could weather a storm. There's a large embossed logo on the front, a subtle nod to the previous Norse branding without being as theatrical. The overall design has a light, fresh aesthetic, especially compared to the heavier, darker look of the old bottle. It feels cleaner and more contemporary, focusing on the distillery's Orkney heritage. The robust shape appeals to me more than I expected, and combined with that embossing, it's a handsome bottle that feels both approachable and premium.
Colour
Here's where things get a bit disappointing. At 40% ABV and chill-filtered, with what I suspect is added colouring, this doesn't tick the boxes many have come to value. The colour is a warm amber, attractive enough, but given the lack of transparency about natural colour on the label, I'm assuming it's been standardised. For a whisky that trades heavily on heritage and quality, bottling at 40% and chill-filtering feels like missed opportunities. It's the sort of decision that makes you wonder what this could taste like if they'd shown it a bit more respect.
Nose - Gentle and approachable. There's a light smokiness here, but it's subtle, more like heather smoke than full-on peat. Some honey sweetness, dried fruits (raisins particularly), and a touch of citrus. There's also vanilla and a hint of spice. The sherry influence is present but not dominant. It's a pleasant nose, well-balanced, though perhaps a touch restrained.
Palate - Smooth and easy-drinking. That gentle smoke comes through with honey and heather sweetness. The sherry casks contribute some dried fruit and a touch of nuttiness. There's a maltiness underneath it all, with some spice building gently. The texture is lighter than I'd like, which I'd attribute to the 40% ABV and chill-filtration. The flavours are there and they're nicely balanced, but there's a thinness that holds it back from being something more substantial.
Finish - Medium length with gentle smoke and spice. The sweetness fades gradually, leaving behind some oak and a lingering hint of that heather smoke. It's pleasant without being particularly memorable.
Overall
Highland Park 12 is a perfectly decent whisky. The balance between smoke and sweet is well-judged, the sherry influence adds complexity without dominating, and there's an elegance to it that I can appreciate. It's the sort of dram that would be easy to enjoy without much thought, undemanding and pleasant.
But here's where I struggle: at around £40-45, I'm not sure it offers enough to justify the price, especially when you consider the production choices. The 40% ABV and chill-filtration rob it of the body and intensity it could have. There's quality in the liquid, but it feels like it's been processed for mass appeal rather than character.
I'm glad I tried it, and I can understand why it has its fans. The bottle design is certainly striking, and the whisky itself is well-made. But will I be buying another bottle? Probably not. There are whiskies at this price point that offer more complexity, more intensity, and better overall value whilst showing the spirit more respect.
If you’re curious to try this one for yourself, it’s usually available from Master of Malt or The Whisky Exchange or better yet, find it at your local whisky shop!
If you’ve tried this dram and are looking for a way to log your tastings try Whisky Diaries.