Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old
There's something quietly rebellious about Bunnahabhain. While most of Islay shouts about peat and smoke, this distillery on the island's remote northeastern shore takes a different path entirely. The 12 year old is their flagship expression, an unpeated single malt that lets sherry casks and coastal character take centre stage. I've been curious about this one for a while, particularly after reading so much about how it divides opinion amongst Islay purists. Let's see what all the fuss is about...
Bottle
The Bunnahabhain bottle shares that short, sturdy profile I've come to appreciate in bottles like Aberlour and Balvenie. It feels solid and well-weighted in the hand. What sets it apart, though, is the completely opaque black glass — you can't see the whisky inside at all. It's a bold design choice that I'm not entirely sure about. Part of the joy of whisky is admiring that natural colour, and here you're left guessing until you pour. The label is clean and simple, with that distinctive Bunnahabhain typography doing most of the work. It's certainly striking on the shelf, but I do miss being able to see what's inside (especially to know how much is left!).
Colour
This is where Bunnahabhain earns serious respect. Naturally coloured and non-chill-filtered at 46.3% ABV — exactly what you want to see from a quality single malt. The colour is a beautiful deep amber with reddish tones, clearly showing the influence of those sherry casks without any artificial enhancement. It's genuinely pleasing to know what you're seeing is real.
Nose - Rich, fruity, and immediately inviting. There's a lovely nuttiness here wrapped up with dried fruits. Raisins and figs come through clearly, with a touch of orange peel in the background. There's also a subtle maritime note, a gentle coastal breeze rather than the aggressive sea spray you get from some Islay malts. A hint of vanilla rounds it all out nicely.
Palate - Smooth and remarkably easy-drinking for 46.3%. The sherry influence really shows itself here with waves of dried fruit and Christmas cake spices. There's a lovely maltiness underneath it all, with a touch of chocolate and those nuts from the nose carrying through. The coastal character is there too — a light salinity that adds complexity without dominating. It's beautifully balanced; nothing fights for attention, it all just works together.
Finish - Medium to long, with the fruit notes gradually giving way to gentle spice and oak. A pleasant warmth lingers, along with that subtle saltiness that reminds you this is still very much an Islay whisky, just wearing a very different outfit.
Overall
Bunnahabhain 12 year old is proof that Islay can do more than peat bombs. This is a sophisticated, well-crafted dram that offers genuine complexity without shouting about it. The sherry influence is beautifully integrated, the coastal character adds intrigue, and the decision to bottle at 46.3% without chill filtration shows real commitment to quality.
Is it the most exciting whisky I've tried? Perhaps not. But sometimes you don't want excitement - you want reliability and drinkability, and this delivers both in spades. At around £45-50 (even cheaper in the regular offers), it sits in that sweet spot of being affordable enough for regular drinking whilst offering enough quality to satisfy serious whisky drinkers. It's a bottle I'd happily keep on the shelf.
Typically available for around £45